I tell you this so that you can understand some of the other cuts and tapes you may see on my pattern. I did a petite adjustment through my shoulders. I printed out the pattern and adjusted it for my side waist, but not for my height, I wanted the dress to hit at my knee instead of above it. When adjusting for sway back with a top that has a center back seam, the adjustments is quick and simple. The Tulip dress is perfect because it has a center back seam., but the seam is a straight seam, so it's easy to adjust for and easy to remove if you want to cut it on the fold instead of with a seam. Speaking of starting from scratch, lets take a look at a pattern that is perfect for explaining how all this works, the Tulip Dress and Tunic. The amount of fabric pinched at the center is the amount that we will adjust for.
And unfortunately, with most shirts and dresses without a waist seam, this can't be done on an already made shirt, you'll have to start from scratch. There should only be an extra wedge of fabric that needs to come out. If you happen to have fabric to pinch out all the way around the top, you would probably benefit from a height adjustment rather then sway back. You can kind of see where clips in the center have "pinched" out the most fabric go to having nearly zero "pinched" out at the side seams. So use this photo only as a rough example of how your "pinching out" should look. The fabric for this top is a bunch of very drape-y mystery fabrics and I have gone down a whole size since making this shirt, so there is a lot more lines and room then there would be if I had were wearing my proper size. Miss 11 was "helping" me and wouldn't listen to my advise about where my waist location was. It is important that the person clipping the excess know what they are doing so you don't get results like the one above. Basically, this pooling can also happen when there isn't enough room in the garment for the tush and the fabric wiggles its way up to a smaller, less restrictive place and pools at the small of the back.
SEWRIGHT FOR MAC FULL
Now, if the band was constantly pulling up over my tush, or if the band was too snug, that might indicate that I might need to grade out more in the hip, or maybe even need to do a full booty adjustment (that tutorial will come, eventually). Yeah, that's what says I need a sway back adjustment. Okay, now I need to point out all the wrinkles and extra fabric pooling right at the small of my back. This fabric is rayon spandex, that's important because rayon grows and will exacerbate the problem. My back is straight and my shoulders are back.
Adorable, huh? Few things to notice about this hoodie, first, my band it pretty straight across my tush, it isn't pushed up over my hips and it fits pretty well, not too tight, not too lose. First, let me show you what it looks like when you need a sway back adjustment.
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